Treasna na dTonnta

It goes without saying that much has changed since the last millennium. However ISKA did manage to capture much of the heart of nature in its millennium meet this year. Beaches with only bird prints and driftwood, islands blooming with primroses, schools of dolphins, campfires and sea air.

The ISKA Millennium meet from 29^th April to 1^st May brought an eclectic mix of sea paddlers from all over Ireland to Finish Island off the coast of Connemara. In total there were about 40 people on the weekend, a very welcome aspect of which was seeing some of the younger members and pets arriving over on Sunday evening.

Finish Island provided easy access to a number of islands off the coast. Those visited were Duck Island, Inishmuskerry and Birmore. Further west on Saturday, we visited Mason and St. MacDara’s islands. St. MacDara’s Island with its small church proved a lovely spot for lunch and a photo shoot.

A pilgrimage is held on this island each year, the locals departing by boat from An Más.

For the entire weekend we were blessed with sunshine. I don’t know just how Des Keaney organised that. As a result, camping was not at all difficult, it was even enjoyable. Finish Island provided an ample source of driftwood for campfires. This, coupled with Sean Pierce’s whiskey and the supply of alcohol brought over by Dave Walsh and Dinky O’Sullivan, make for lively conversation each night. Some local lads arrived over with accordions on Saturday night. Alas however we didn’t get to hear Líle ní Chonchuir’s musical expertise on the concertina.

There were so many interesting aspects of the weekend it is difficult to remember them all. Eileen Murphy and Ruth Bracken were followed home by a school of dolphins on one of the evenings. Eileen also won a bottle of gin in a golfing competition over near Spiddle having climbed from her kayak to play.

The good weather gave lovely paddling conditions and fabulous sunsets. For me, Inishmuskerry Island with its abundance of primroses, the lovely clean beaches and seeing the Connemara ponies at the back of Finish Island were particularly beautiful.

Everyone should be complemented on leaving the island just as they found it. The last person who lived on Finish Island was buried on the Friday before this meet. As a tribute to those who have gone before us and to future generations, it is so important as we continue to preserve areas such as this island.

In Chief Seattle words,

Many, many thanks to Des Keaney, Dave Walsh, Sean Pierce and Josie Gibbons for organising and planning the trip and to Robin Ruddock for the idea. A lot of work went into deciding on the exact location for the weekend, and someone must have some deal with higher powers to have organised such glorious weather. Until the next millennium…

When Des Keaney asked me to write on the trip to Inishmurray, I have to admit that I agreed in a moment of weakness. This was my first experience of kayaking away from the relative comfort of the coastline, and for someone who has recently taken up the sport, the prospects were a little daunting. My original plan was to start from Streedagh point, the shortest route of approximately four and a half miles. However, on the morning of departure, everyone else had decided to go from Mullaghmore, some five and a half miles longer.

The loading of the kayaks for such a trip does require some planning, far more than I had anticipated. I rose to the challenge with reasonable determination, if not considerable naivety of what lay ahead. Fortunately I was surrounded by at least fifteen other kayakers who did know what they were about.

The weather proved favourable and the sea seemed aware of my level of anxiety and remained calm throughout. We set off around the tip of Mullaghmore head along a route well travelled down through the centuries. The great thing about this sport is that those of you who have kayaked for years provided considerable support, instruction and assistance to myself. I hope at some future point to be able to do the same for another paddler.

We extended the paddle to land on a 'sandy' beach. As we approached, I could see some waves breaking off to the right. The sight of this instilled a sense of terror. However, the rest of the seadogs headed straight for it with a manic sense of delight so that they could play in the surf. I definitely fell into the category of chicken and remained at some distance, trying to figure out how to land without capsizing. The art of capsizing is something I can do with considerable expertise.

The beach was filled with pockets of soft sand. At one point I was walking over to one group and ended up knee high in sand. This of course sparked a memory of a documentary I had seen about a woman who had been walking along a beach with her husband and became stuck in quicksand and could not get out!!

After a little food and chat we set off on the final leg to Inishmurray. This is where the fun began. About two thirds of the way there I began to fade. Des Keaney, Seán Pierce and Paul Durnan came to my rescue. The interesting thing about being towed is that for about 70% of the time you are not really in a tow situation. The lines remain slack, but I believe it is a great psychological support and helps to keep a very tired paddler on the straight and narrow.

Whatever about the loading of kayaks, landing and unloading, especially on Inishmurray, was quite an experience. I estimate that it took about 2 hours in total. The next new experience was erecting the tent. I had never camped before and cooking on a Trangia brought back childhood memories of going to the beach and trying to light a meths stove in windy conditions.

Inishmurray has quite a chequered history. At one time, it was a monastic settlement, the ruins of which are still very visible. One of the more interesting features were the 'cursing stones'. Well they certainly held a fascination for some of our party. The Beehive hut proved irresistible to Des Keaney and David Walsh who decided to sleep there. The Island is a bird sanctuary with Eider duck, geese, a range of gulls and my favourites, the curious Shags. The islanders left in 1948 but some of the descendants have returned to paint the names of the extended families on a doorway.

By the time I returned from my little excursion, most of the group had eaten and were collecting wood for the camp fire. My party settled down to steak, mushrooms and potatoes and after some more wine we joined the rest of the group. It was at this stage that we began to partake of a real Inishmurray tradition, the drinking of whiskey. According to Patrick Heraughty, John Power of Powers Whiskey donated a copper still, so impressed was he by the Islanders skill.

Night-time, after the whiskey singsong and popcorn (provided by Malcolm Goodbody), proved to be bitterly cold. Most of us had been fooled by the heat of the day and warmth of the camp fire. However, as we all gradually retired to our respective tents and sleeping bags, the reality of the cold hit fast. I must have put on every thermal I had and I have since invested in a warmer sleeping bag and a thermarest. Quite the little camper now.

I headed off around the less inhabited part of the island and came across a large nesting area of Shags. After breakfast, the dreaded packing began. I was amazed at how much more difficult it was, probably due to the excesses of the night before. Finally the party headed off.

We had to tack across to Streedagh point, something to do with the tide current, who knows? The waters proved to be a considerable challenge for someone of my experience. My boat, a Huntsman, or as Ciaran Smith informed me, 'the handbag', does not have a rudder or skeg! Thus I relied on my few paddling skills and the patience and support of Ciaran and Mary Butler. Eventually I relented and took another tow. This time I was towed by the double which was being paddled by Malcolm and Jeremy Bird. The most interesting/scary part of this was the rogue waves that appeared from nowhere. I did not capsize but I did visualise trying to exit the boat while being towed upside down!!!

We landed on yet another beach, totally exhausted. Ciaran handed me what has to have been the best sardine sandwich I have ever tasted. I ate a little more, lay down across some rocks, snoozed and tried desperately to pluck up enough energy and courage to complete the journey. Again kayakers to the rescue. With a bit of reshuffling, Ciaran took the Huntsman, Jeremy took Ciarans’ boat, and I ended up in the front of the double with Malcolm at the rear. What a relief.

We paddled across to Blackrock lighthouse in Sligo Bay and rearranged the paddler formation with myself and Sean Pierce in the double. We rocketed home. Dry land, unpacked kayaks and the group dispersed. I believe I can now call myself a sea kayaker, and look forward to many more trips. Thanks to everyone for their help and support.

Sea Kayaking by its nature is a potentially hazardous pursuit and much time and effort is put in by us all to reduce and control the risks involved.

The SKA makes great efforts to encourage all types of training to achieve this goal and another vital link in the chain was added by the running of a 3 day Rescue and Emergency Care course in the ICU Training centre in recent weeks. As with other training courses this one was subsidised to encourage maximum participation.

Great praise is due to Paul Butcher who gave an excellent presentation over three very full days. The weekend was very well attended and all 11 participants were kept busy and interested throughout. The training was built up in a series of easily digestible modules which came together in a simple user friendly approach to tackling a First Aid situation.

The training was very hands on, literally as you can imagine and the only thing paddlers need worry about is sharing a tent in the future with a REC trained sleepwalker. The risk is ever present of waking up to a dark figure poised above you fumbling with the zip of your sleeping bag while chanting the mantra "Airway, Breathing, Circulation" and gently tilting your head back into the safe airway position.

Topics ranged from such basics to heat and cold injuries, fractures, head injuries etc. We were watched in bemused fashion by other paddlers using the centre as we were sprawled in group disaster situations in the undergrowth along the Liffey banks. Little did they know that we were eyeing them like hungry vultures just waiting to pounce if we got a hint of the slightest injury on which to practise our new skills.

As most of you will know ,as well as being a very worthwhile course in itself, REC is now a prerequisite for many awards both on the water and on the hills . Therefore all I can say to close is that anyone not fortunate enough to have participated in REC training should start pressing for a new course sooner rather than later. By the way to recognise Paul on the water from a distance all you have to look for is the raft he is towing to carry his First Aid Kit.

The 2000 Symposium will be held in Baltimore, Co.Cork on the Republic of Ireland October bank holiday weekend of 28^th-30^th October.

The choice of workshops and lectures will be better than ever before. Paddling is sure to be good in this wonderful area of islands, bays and inlets.

Beginners have the choice of the sheltered waters of Roaringwater Bay while advanced paddlers can aim for Cape Clear and maybe even the Fastnet.

More information in the next issue and on the website.

• A particular model year of kayak wouldn't be available until AFTER that year, instead of before.

• Every time you wanted to try a new paddle, you would have to buy a new kayak.

• Occasionally your kayak would stop dead in the water for no apparent cause. No amount of paddling would budge it. You would have to tow it back to the launch site and restart your kayak.

• For some strange reason, you would simply just accept this.

• Two people could not both paddle your kayak unless you paid extra for a '95 kayak or NT kayak in which case you would also have to buy an extra seat and expensive new charts.

• A sophisticated marketing blitz would make you feel like a second-rate tasteless slacker for failing to upgrade your kayak.

• OOPS -- wait a minute -- that's ALREADY happening.

• Sun Microsystem would make a kayak with 70% less hull drag, half the weight, watertight in all conditions and twice as stable. Unfortunately, it could be used on only 5% of the existing waters.

• Your Microsoft kayak's compass, weather radio, and sump pump would be replaced with a single "General Kayak Fault" warning light.

• The enthusiast press would get people excited about the "new" features of Microsoft kayaks, forgetting completely that they had been available in other brands for years.

• Microsoft's inconsiderable owners manual would spawn a whole cottage industry of outsiders who would write hundreds of books explaining how to paddle your Microsoft kayak. Amazingly, we would buy all they printed.

• If you wanted to go kayaking in a group with your club members or friends ( known as Network Kayaking) . EVERYONE in the group will have BUY special group kayaking accessories: however, only one member of the group (known as the kaysysop) would have the foggiest notion of exactly what they did and no one else would be permitted operate them.

Dear Des,

Further to Peter Corks commentary regarding Orcas, I must take exception to his statement that 'local sea kayaking outfitters organise trips that allow people to paddle amongst these exotic creatures".

While humans may never have been harmed by Orcas, the converse is certainly not true. Wildlife may in its own time feel safe enough to approach a kayak, as was Donal O'Dowds experience. A kayak is a means in which to quietly approach wildlife and get within easy striking distance - the original intent of previous hunters - and the target creatures will take whatever action they deem necessary to protect themselves, either fight or more usually flight. Regardless of the outcome for the kayaker, the wildlife is left stressed, and there are more than enough pressures on them without us lot adding to their troubles.

Sean Pierce rightly assessed the 250 Grey Seals, which he came across near Glenlough, to be in panic as they dived into the sea. They will have perceived Sean to be some type of threat to their safety, however unlikely the mantle of "Sean Pierce, well known Skerries Eskimo Hunter" might seem.

Any responsible outfitter, kayaker, or other person for that matter, will observe nature from a respectable distance. That respect being primarily for the wildlife in question. Having lived and paddled (a little) around the Seattle / Vancouver area, I understand the authorities there to have been considering, if not already implementing, 'no - go' zones of several hundred metres around whales or other marine animals. This had been initially prompted by the actions of some whale watching tours who had been, in effect, terrorising whales in their attempts to get their fee paying humanoids ever closer. An irony found was that the silent, non-polluting kayak induced even higher stress when the unaware animals found in their midst an unidentified something, assumed to be life threatening, from which they must escape.

Peters analogy with the dope at the aquarium sticking his head into the mouth of the captive Orca is entirely irrelevant and deserves no further ink to be wasted.

We can enjoy wildlife quite adequately and safely, for all concerned, from a respectable distance. If we find ourselves graced with a close-up view initiated by an animal or bird then enjoy that moment as a rare privilege, and keep quietly paddling !!

Thanks for the excellent publication Treasna na dTonnta.

Best regards, Ken McIlreavy

Rough Stuff Paddles (i.e. Mark Downey, Canoe Centre, Palmerstown), can make you any paddle you want.. and on the spot too. You can get any length, blade type, shaft and feather.

The Sea Walker is one of the Rough Stuff range that is suitable for sea kayaking.

The Blade: Asymmetric but narrower and longer than the classic sea blade e.g. the Nordkapp. This design allows for an efficient stroke as all of the area of the blade can be in the water. The material used in the blade can be nylon, glassfibre or carbon the latter being the lightest.

The Shaft: Materials used in its manufacture are glassfibre or carbon, again the carbon reducing weight. Glassfibre has " give " in its favour with the carbon being more rigid the shaft can be made using a variable joint. The joint utilised at Rough Stuff allows the kayaker to adjust the length with a variation of 10cms. This joint also allows for feather to be altered with 45 55 65 & 75 degree angles marked on the device. Furthermore, the paddle is split making it easier to transport.

The Cost: Carbon Blade and glassfibre shaft £200

The variable shaft is excellent. When conditions are calm, it is great to be able to extend the length to its maximum. As conditions become less favourable with a quick turn, it is so easy to shorten the paddle. The angle was quite simple to adjust as well according to the sea conditions. The smaller the angle, the less pressure on the wrist. Adjustment to the bigger angle is obviously required when wind becomes a problem.

The shape of the blade makes for a very efficient stroke. On changing from the more traditional blade shape e.g. the Nordkapp, one notices the power achieved as all of the area of the blade is being used.

Overall, this paddle seems to be quite well designed. It is being exported in large numbers for the American market. It is being manufactured here in Ireland, and to individual specifications.

Mill Lane

Palmerstown

Dublin 20

Ph.01-6264363

Email: mark@roughstuff.ie

I had gone silent for the last few miles as I was privately savouring the moment of arrival. We had taken the scenic route along the eastern edge of Inishowen and now were back in Culdaff. My mind was in very relaxed mode as I contemplated the stage of the grand plan. I looked around and found Des and Eric smiling with mischief. "Don’t you love when he goes all soft and mushy"! says Eric.

The cue was taken and a good-hearted ribbing ensued. I navigated into the dunes and we scouted out our options. "B&B?" enquired Des rather hopefully. He knew that in all probability I would camp. However his case was been strengthened by a massive downpour and we decided to eat first and decide later. A good meal at the Malin Hotel and the evening cleared beautifully. We pitched in the dunes and found a suitable establishment within walking distance. It was great to be back and I was delighted that Des had agreed to complete the final stretch with me.

We had slept well and I woke to those summer sounds of Pipits and Skylarks in the machair. I lay awake snug in the sleeping bag listening to the sounds and feeling the heat of the sun warming the tent. "Nice contrast to the cold nights of April" I thought and my mind wandered to the subject of breakfast. I felt Des stirring.- my cue to hustle and I eased into the routine that we had established the previous summer. A fry it was! So I rattled a few pans and woke all campers. It was a gorgeous morning, calm and thundery! Sunshine and wildflowers in the dunes very picturesque and I banged off a few slides.

The time for the "big pack" had arrived and Eric waited patiently to collect all superfluous items. It was just as well he did because Des had brushed off one of the tent poles and it had broken very easily. We did a check and two more shattered. Metal fatigue! We were most annoyed. The tent was hardly a year old and had only been used for a third of the trip the previous year. Eric volunteered his which worked very well for the remainder of the trip.

Although up at 7.00 is we did not get organised until 10.00am. I had forgotten Des’s wily old ways. A master tactician on how to avoid getting wet too soon in the day! Checks of a skeg line here, an adjustment there. It was a game we both enjoyed playing the previous summer until I used to get so exasperated that I would bully him onto the water. The usual banter and mumblings inevitably followed until the bodies loosened out and we eased into the task.

We slipped away from Culdaff getting thoroughly soaked in the surf and we pointed our bows towards Inishowen Head. A flooding tide, seabirds and pretty bays gave us a very pleasant mornings paddle. Kinnegoe Bay slipped away to starboard and we rounded Inishowen Head to land at the lighthouse for lunch. We had both got quite cold as the sun got ‘blocked out’ by an ominous looking cloud during the course of the late morning.

I pottered off to find water and was attracted to try at the lighthouse keeper’s cottages by the freshly painted buildings. I roused a man from his bunk. It had been the daughter’s 21^st he explained the previous evening as he pleasantly filled my container. He managed a roguish grin as he asked about my ‘skirt’ but wished us well on the passage. We brewed up a ‘hot infusion’. Having tried soups, teas and cappuccinos to the point of boredom last year we had settled on herbal teas for the north coast. It proved that Des had an unerring knack of avoiding the insipid varieties and my willingness to experiment meant I discovered the ‘blackcurrant specials’ too late!

Warmed by lunch and a brief belt of sunshine we headed out across the Foyle keeping the temple at Mussendon as our transit mark. An uneventful trip and the day deteriorated into light rain getting heavier. We played ‘chase the dorsal fins’ for a little while but failed to get near the beasts and we eased the boats east towards Portstewart and Portrush.

The wind picked up from the north as promised by the met man. As we passed the mouth of the Bann I was struck by the very distinctive colour change as the fresh water rode out to sea over the salt, it covered quite an area and it was curious to smell the river while at sea. The boating activity increased off Ramore Head and we landed at 4.00pm to a very welcoming Robin Ruddock. He had estimated our time of arrival to the minute and we delighted to meet him. The kayaks were laid up in the boathouse on the slipway and we retired into Robin and his family’s company for what was a most interesting and rewarding two days.

Life only ‘stirred’ when Robin poked his head up through the trapdoor around 8.00am. "Ye may linger a while it’s blowing a little out there" he said. Linger we did although I did not fall back to sleep. I lay awake reflecting on the hospitality of the previous evening. I had found Robin’s company very invigorating, full of ideas and plans. Janet and he had a house stuffed with things nautical, memorabilia and ‘finds’ from many a beachcombing expedition. Photographs, whalebones, tropical seeds and a back garden full of boats all vied for my attention. We had stayed in the "bunkhouse" and I found myself constantly reaching for one classic book after another amazed at the depth of material and knowledge around me.

I roused myself and wandered down to find Robin in full tilt preparing breakfast. We were out the door and at Dunluce Castle in minutes checking on the sea. A cold 4-5 northerly looked very uninviting and we decided that we would leave it settle overnight and enjoy this stretch of coast. I relaxed into what I knew would be an enjoyable day…laid up in Robin’s bunkhouse was going to be the best gale day of the trip!

Later in the day Des and I took a potter around Portrush, watched the surfers and then went to do a few running repairs on the kayaks. The boathouse is a facility the Causeway Coast Paddlers have inherited from the local authorities. Situated on the waterfront it is Robin’s intention for it to become a focal point for kayakers, sailors and traditional craft enthusiasts.

Having repaired pumps and skegs we returned to the harbour checked out the RNLI Museum and the Harbour Bar before dinner. The meal at Ruddock’s was another lively affair with friends Chris and Charro dropping in. Robin had a last errand to run late in the evening and engaged our help to shift the 30-foot currach Colmcille to Bushmills.The boats history was related on route and again I marvelled at the energy of this guy.

A few quiet beers talking with Janet and Robin wound down a stimulating day.

I woke at 7.00am after an intermittent night! Des was as relaxed as a newt in his slumbers. I roused him after I had done my ‘ablutions’. The day looked bright and clear and as soon as I put my head around the kitchen door Robin was once again on the job. We were away down the harbour in minutes and the sea looked good. The wait had paid off and I knew that the Causeway Coast was a goer. Over breakfast Robin was firing with enthusiasm giving insights into the local history, hotspots, pull in sites and people to call on down the coast. Des and I had been impressed with the network of the northern paddlers; they were well organised, enthusiastic and very welcoming. It was a normal work and school day at the Ruddock’s so we were anxious not to be a nuisance. Robin dropped us down to the boathouse and bade us farewell.

We were away by 10.30am and headed east for Dunluce Castle, Portballintrae and Benbane Head. I began to have serious intake of seawater problems and had to beach the kayak at Runkerry to bale her out. More gear failure - the upper section of my spraydeck had had enough. I donned a storm cag which solved the problem. The sea remained lumpy but we didn’t care it was going to be a good day and a stunning coastline. We ultimately had a ‘quality day’. Scotland’s Isle of Jura, The Paps and Kintyre all adding that extra dimension to an already interesting coastline. The chalk and basalt cliffs are very different for the ‘southern’ paddler and of course Rathlin Island dominates the forward vision all day forcing the mind to wander off and plans future trips.

Somewhere along this northern stretch of coast I reflected on a line I had read in one of Pete Boardman’s books. It ran something along the lines of advising one not to finish an expedition without planning another! It began to prey on my mind increasingly over the next few days.

However today was to be enjoyed and we rounded Benbane Head and ran down onto the Giant’s Causeway. The wind stayed in the north giving us a beam sea and approaching the famous Causeway we could see the usual parties of tourists on the shore. Des let up a shout and pointed out a paddler inshore but in front of us and going at a fair old lick. We broke into a sprint and tried to catch up. With the kayaks fully laden it proved quite a job.

As we came abeam we were all surprised. It was Ciaran Smith! What a place to meet up with another ‘southern’ paddler. Ciaran was bound for Dunseverick where he had started that morning so we joined him and enjoyed his good-natured banter and jokes. At Dunseverick we found shelter in a half built cottage and had lunch or at least whatever Ciaran left us! He was his usual ravenous self after being out all morning.

As we lingered Robin surprised us with a well-timed visit and we both reflected later on what a lovely gesture that was. He had seen us safely through his patch and we were very grateful. He spent our lunchtime fixing a skeg problem on my boat as my hands had seized up from the cold. The afternoon saw us pushing along the north Antrim coast passing Carrickarede and Ballycastle and Rathlin Island edging closer all the time.

It was getting on towards late evening by the time we came abreast of Fair Head and the significance of last of the big headlands was not lost on me. The Irish Sea was emptying into the North Channel and I manoeuvred myself in front of Des calling out for him to get a photograph. The evening was beautiful as we passed very close to the shoreline cheating the ebb. The channel looked very turbulent further out and I wondered what a battle it would be out there. Murlough Bay impressed us and we pulled ashore to pitch camp for the night. We were satisfied with our day. The light lingered giving cracking views across to Scotland we ate our meal and I decided that a campfire was needed. The old Boy Scout skills came back and Des just happened to know where the blessed bottle was stashed.

A memorable day and evening hearing the fire crackling and the calls of Buzzards on the cliffs above us going to roost. We retired looking forward to the Glens Of Antrim.

I woke with a start at 6.00am once the whiskey cut out of the system…felt my usual pretty awful state but it was a lovely morning. The sun was high already over the Mull of Kintyre and I drank in the superb views without having to leave the comfort of my sleeping bag.

I became conscious of the heat later on as the sun streamed through the open door of the tent and I began to bake. We raised ourselves and hit the water c.11.00am. Conditions were beautiful. A firm northerly breeze behind us and a cracker of a day. The Glens of Antrim were very attractive in the light and it was a day for photography. Torr Head was passed shortly later and I watched contentedly as the compass displayed bearings of 180 degrees. I was going home and to be honest I was both a little sad and excited.

We were moving nicely and pushed on down the coast towards Cushendun. We pulled in and had a most pleasurable lunch in a little pub on the bridge. The two pints knocked the buzz out of my paddling!. I found the afternoon did not go nearly as well for me. Des on the other hand was on supercharge and I struggled to keep up even with a following sea. I wasn’t unduly worried, as this had been the pattern the previous summer as we often were tired on alternate days.

By late in the afternoon I had clocked up about 20 Buzzards for the day and looking at the range of habitats they were breeding in up here was no reason why they should be so scarce in the Republic except by the hand of man.

We passed south of Glenarm along the coast road and searched a long time for a suitable pull in spot. It was quite difficult to find a place and we eventually found a triangle of grass beside a car park about 2km north of Ballygalley. The road went by just over our heads and it was amusing to watch the car headlights flash through the top of the tent later that night. What a contrast to the calm and tranquillity of the previous evening. We were both a little disappointed with our daily mileage only 40km today we reckoned we should have made IslandMagee. However, it was not to be and we had a minor struggle setting up camp in a rising NE which chilled us quickly. It was an evening to talk, plan the following day and read.

I woke around dawn and slept fitfully thereafter reflected on my diary returns for the previous day and found them inadequate. I had been tired and fed up the previous evening by the time I had got around to writing notes and well it was reflected in the standard of the entries. I pondered on how the high altitude mountaineers managed at all. I decided that I was being a weany and to cop myself on!

The northern coastline is not to be underestimated in terms of distances even with our luck of following winds and bright clear conditions. Deep down I also knew that the end of the trip was in sight and it was playing on my mind. I had wanted this part of the journey to be a watershed in some ways. I was hoping it would clarify some ideas on what I wanted to achieve in the future. I had found myself on the water thinking out these thoughts but not getting any blinding flash of inspiration. The closeness of Scotland was the one certainty and I satisfied myself for the minute that it would be involved in some way or other. The details would resolve themselves in time.

I raised myself out of my soliquay and Des and I pulled away from our dirty boulder beach around mid-morning. It had been a struggle with fully loaded boats and we were glad to be away.

We were both cold and famished and we polished off whatever grub was available. In the lee of the wind we soaked up the intermittent sunshine, the wind had been help but it was cold once ashore.

We set out to pass inside Muck Island but the tide had beaten us and we found the bar uncovered. Rather than a portage which neither had any enthusiasm for we doubled back around the seaward side of the island. It proved a worthwhile detour, as the cliffs were full of breeding seabirds, Razorbills, Kittiwakes and Guillemots. I was quite surprised to find the seaward side so precipitous and later the whole coast of Islandmagee.

The seabird colonies continued at the Gobbins and the island seemed to fly by as the tidal flow beneath us gained speed. A peculiar stairway and steps fashioned into the cliff face had both of us intrigued. I have no idea what it was for. It once extended for about half a mile along the steep cliffs but we could find no sign of quarrying and we speculated on it being a Victorian walkway!

We headed on towards Block Head Lighthouse and the view of Belfast Lough opened up. We again had to give way to shipping as the HSS thundered in from Scotland. The Maidens were now slipping away northwards and the lighthouse on The Copelands began to dominate. I had a romantic wish to land and camp overnight on the Copelands and we knew that they had a respectable series of tidal flows. We pondered the problem as we headed across the Lough.

The seabird life was changing again and once south of Islandmagee there was a definite increase in Tern species. Both Common and Sandwich Terns began to appear with increasing regularity. Approaching Groomsport I began to get tired and hoping Des might head for the islands. Alas, Des pointed out that the tide was still in our favour and we should continue on towards Donaghadee. It was a solid reason to continue and I fed up on bars to fuel the body.

By Copeland Sound I had recovered and we pushed it out to Donaghadee. Viewing it from the sea we found it typical of the northern towns, well kept, built up and no where to camp anywhere close it. All beach front and sand dune areas were either housed in or public parking areas.

We continued down the coast a few more kms and found an another very public camping spot on the seaward side of a dilapidated car park. At least it had plenty of grass. We set up camp and cooked our meal and reflected on our day. Calls came in from Ann and Marie who are always welcome and we settled into our routine of cooking, washing-up and stowing gear for the night.

We then had a visit from two local teenagers that gave us cause for concern. Two shifty individuals who right on cue started to chuck stones against the tent. We tried the strategy of saying nothing but made our presence felt. Des, no small boy! tested the size and rotational arc of his all timber Inuit paddle and I reached for the mobile phone and preceded to call no one in particular. Our acting abilities seem to work and they pushed off. However, it made for an uneasy night and we both found it difficult to relax. At one stage a car pulled up very close to the tent and gave us the full headlights. I woke Des and we quietly prepared for battle! I was convinced there was going to be trouble. A door opened and then I heard the distinctive sounds of a chap off loading some ballast and a girl’s voice telling him to hurry it up!

He fired up the engine did a few wheelies around the carpark and roared to a stop at the far side. Apart from the springs getting a testing, peace descended and eventually I drifted off to sleep fully kitted out in my battle gear!

We woke about 7.00am both feeling tired, dehydrated and dead in the bag! I attempted to roll over on several occasions but there was nothing for it I was awake and had to rouse myself. I felt better once breakfast kicked in and we both got moving packing the kayaks. A daily chore but one that gets easier when the amount of food begins to lighten. We had another visit from our local "tormentor" but I think he got the message that our humour was quite black and he pushed off quickly enough.

The day was dull with a moderate 3-4 NW. The wind pushed us nicely down the coast past many of the Bally’s. as all the towns seemed to be called hereabouts! After 2 hours of surfing downwind we entered the main harbour of Portavogie. A big industrial type place. There was no where immediately obvious to land so I called out to a lad onshore and he directed us around to the southern side. We landed at the back end of the harbour. Lovely spot as you can imagine! full of the discards of the fishing industry. We had a decision to make and coloured by our experience of the night before we split our resources. Des stayed with the dead crabs and kayaks and I got first sitting at the Quays Bar!

I did the second watch and while Des had his chicken supreme I reflected on the morning’s paddle. It had been enjoyable catching the ebb tide and a following wind. The wildlife interest had been good amongst the reefs with Eider, Black Guillemots and Sandwich Terns but Scotland had faded from our view over the morning. Instead Slieve Donard had begun to creep into view and I knew I was approaching the end of the journey.

We had a good rest and meal at The Quays. I went and did a little shopping in this very obvious red/white/blue town. The port road honoured the UVF and UDA and I reflected on how difficult it must have been to live in towns like this. The resentment and bitterness was palpable even though the slogans had begun to wear and fade. The ironies that are Ireland dominated my thoughts as I talked with the friendly people in the local shop.

On the water again we pushed ever southwards moving down a somewhat uninteresting section of the Ards Peninsula. Neat northern towns and caravan parks dominated the coastline and reminded me parts of south Wexford. My body clock told me that it was getting towards dinnertime! I began to feel that we would never get to Ballyquentin Point the northern entrance to Strangford Lough. Des, if he had got his tides right, reckoned that flood would be just starting at the entrance. He was right. We were about midway across before we found ourselves being pulled right in under Killard Point. The flow was impressive and we battled to hold our position.

We landed just south of Killard Point. I had been attracted by what looked like a sand dune system full of wildflowers. Full of curiosity that there were no caravans or houses in the area I wondered what the explanation could be? Military? National Trust? It was the perfect campsite.

We tentatively walked about half expecting to hear a challenge but quickly relaxed. What a lovely place. We were delighted and relieved that the 13kms to Ardglass and an uncertain campsite had been avoided.

Benderg Bay was our base for the night and we clicked into our shore routine. We had eaten by 7.00pm and it began to get cold. The north-north-westerly airflow over the week had been great but it had been cold also. We walked about the dune system and Des read that we were in an area of scientific interest. Our mystery solved we went across to view the tidal push into Strangford. The push was big but rather benign this evening of soft sunshine and glorious sunset. We were content with our day although we had only done about 35kms. I really did not care anymore. If the weather held we would be home in a few days. It was time to enjoy the remaining sections of coastline. We botanised in the dunes for a while searching for a few elusive Bee Orchids amongst the profusion of wildflowers. A good day… this coast has had its surprises.

The baiji or Chinese River dolphin (Lipotes vexillifer) is the world’s most endangered cetacean. Although estimates differ most believe that fewer than 100 survive and it is probable that they will become extinct in our lifetime.

Little is known of this reclusive creature and it has proved impossible to study it in the wild. Most research to date has been gained as the result of studying a single captive male, called Qi-Qi. The baiji is easily frightened and is difficult to approach by boat. It is known to make long dives, changing direction underwater, swimming underneath the boat and then surfacing some distance behind the boat.

Their range is along 1,000 miles of the Yangtze, mainly found where tributaries enter the river. They have grey upper sides and sides and long narrow beaks. They have a stocky body and a very low, triangular fin. They show very little of themselves at the surface, no acrobatics. They are by nature very shy and retiring. Their maximum adult weight and length is around 350lbs and 8.25ft respectively. Baiji’s need to eat at least 10% of their body weight daily.

Having lived in the Yangtze River for more than 20 million years, the baiji looks set to become the first cetacean to be wiped out by the human race.

Although the Chinese Government has recognised the need to protect the baiji, they will be directly responsible for their extinction once work is completed on the Three Gorges Dam project. When completed in 2009 the Dam will be the world’s largest dam and largest hydro-electric scheme. The dam will cause irreversible damage to the baiji’s habitat as it will radically alter the rivers current, and destroy much of its food supply. The dam will eliminate over 12% of the baiji’s already restricted habitat. Of course the baiji will not be the only victim, as over 1.3 million people will be forcible relocated to make way for a reservoir 4,000 miles long. An estimated 100,000 hectares of fertile agricultural land will be flooded as will hundreds of cities, towns and villages. Progress is a powerful motivator!

The other threats to the baiji’s survival include:

• deadly fishing methods which cause an estimated 57% of all human-induced mortalities;

• agricultural and industrial pollution flowing into the Yangtze, including organochlorines and PCB’s;

• industrial development which is affecting the baiji’s natural habitat;

• heavy boat traffic which is causing direct mortalities and affecting their habitat due to noise disturbance;

• other dams and dykes affecting their food supply by blocking fish migration.

Earth Day was on the 22^nd. April. VOICE once again held a Ritual of Respect for the Earth in Dublin. Last year’s Ritual was a huge success with many different religious traditions declaring their respect for the Earth. Other events were also organised around the country. If you would like further details, check out the VOICE web site at www.voice.buz.org or contact me at pbracken@indigo.ie

"The earth is not only by common heritage of all humankind but also the ultimate source of life. By over exploiting its resources we are undermining the very basis of our own life. All around, signs of the destruction caused by human activity and of the degradation of nature abound.

Therefore, the protection and conservation of the earth is not a question of morality or ethics but a question of our own survival. How we respond to this challenge will affect not only this generation but many generations to come". His Holiness, the 14^th. Dalai Lama of Tibet

The Ocean Warrior, flagship of the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, today left its berth in Ft. Pierce, Florida, making for Europe and a campaign of direct intervention against the slaughter of thousands of pilot whales in the Danish protectorate of the Faroe Islands this summer.

After crossing the Atlantic, the 180-foot vessel's volunteer crew will make port in England, Germany, the Netherlands, and the Shetland Islands, gathering support to stop the hunt.

Each year, between 1,000 and 2,000 pilot whales, along with bottlenose whales, dolphins, and Orcas, are driven into shallow bays in the Faeroes by small boats, then butchered alive in an operation called a "grind hunt." The people of the Faroe Islands have the highest standard of living in Europe, and have no subsistence need for whale meat, most of which is dumped.

" 'Operation GrindStop 2000' will be the largest direct-action campaign against the Faroe Islands slaughter in more than a decade," said Ocean Warrior Captain Paul Watson, president of Sea Shepherd. "We conducted the last significant campaign against the Faeroes whale hunt in 1986. Though we weren't able to end the hunt then, we succeeded in diverting a number of pilot whales away from the killing bays and focusing the world's attention on the slaughter."

Over the past year, major European corporations including Tengelmann (with a large interest in A&P Supermarkets), Aldi, and Edeka have terminated their seafood contracts with Faeroes suppliers at Sea Shepherd's urging. The food stores, chain outlets, and restaurants participating in the boycott now number in the tens of thousands. A land campaign of demonstrations, boycotts, and media events will be taking place while Ocean Warrior is in the Faeroes. Activists are identifying those companies who share complicity in the hunts through their continued commerce in seafood, the Islands' economic mainstay. Ben & Jerry's, due to its recent purchase by Unilever, is likely to be a primary target.

In the 1986 campaign, Faeroes gunboats pursued Sea Shepherd's vessel and engaged in a tear-gas attack in an unsuccessful attempt to seize the ship and arrest the crew. This year, Denmark has dispatched a Danish warship to the Faeroes. The Danish government is not allowed to support whaling of any kind under the rules of the European Union, and the grind hunt itself is illegal under the terms of both the Bonn Convention and European Wildlife Convention.

"We will not be deterred by threats or actions," said Captain Watson. "One way or another, we will stop the sport slaughter of these whales once and for all."

Sea Shepherd is inviting and strongly encouraging environmental and conservation organisations, animal welfare groups and individuals to actively participate in the campaign. We are working hard to insure a co-operative effort among groups and individuals. We believe that together we can bring an end to the most brutal, inhumane, pointless, wildlife slaughter in the world.

Peter Bray left St.John’s, Newfoundland on the 16^th of June. The good news is that he is safe and well. The bad news is that less than 24 hours after leaving St.John’s, the failure of a non-return drain valve swamped the kayak.

Peter had to take to his liferaft which he tethered to the kayak. He eventually had to cut himself free when the kayak damaged the liferaft. The kayak was later picked up by a fishing vessel which raised the alarm.

The damage to the liferaft meant that Peter had to bail constantly for the 31 hours he was in the cold waters of the Labrador current before being picked up by the Canadian Coastguard.

Peter was confined to bed suffering with nothing worse mild exposure. The Captain of the Coastguard vessel told the waiting press that it was only Peter's training and the high level of safety equipment carried on the ibidlive.tv kayak that saved his life.

Obviously this is a huge disappointment for Peter and the NAKC team. They’ve spent two years planning and working towards the trip. The plan is to try again next year. We wish them the best.

Ever strolled on a beach and really wanted to know and confidently identify a couple of lichens, three worms, four periwinkles, five anemones, six shell-fish and half a dozen sea-weeds ? This book will break that threshold of ignorance for you. In a day. Guaranteed.

This production is superb for being so little, and containing so little information, so well set out, that it gets its message across. The photos are crystal clear. The layout is idiot proof with colour coded sections that even an adult can follow, and each page formatted the same with name, expectable position referenced to HW or LW, summary, details and picture.

Well capable of penetrating the average intellect evident in the I.S.K.A.

Ireland's Seashore

A Beginners Guide

Sherkin Island Marine Station

R.R.P. £4.99

Des Keaney – Looking around the campfire at the recent Millennium Meet, I realised how few of us are under 30. Why? Was there something we can do to get younger paddlers involved? These questions had been in the back of my mind for a while and I was delighted when Mary O’Flaherty agreed to put her thoughts on paper. If you have any comments or suggestions, do let us know.

Mary O’Flaherty - In examining the limited involvement of ‘younger’ paddlers in sea kayaking, a number of factors become apparent.

Perception – Sea kayaking is widely regarded as ‘boring’, and for ‘oldies’, yet when questioned, many who hold such views have limited, if any experience of the activity. For the most part the activity is not spectator friendly and as such, its appeal is known only to the participants. Yes, it is an activity that can be undertaken by older paddlers and yes, it can be extremely boring, but not necessarily so. The boundaries of what can be attained cannot be pushed out unless those engaging in the activity gain the requisite knowledge and experience at reasonably early age.

Cost – Traditionally the price of sea kayaks was prohibitive to younger paddlers. This situation would seem to have altered given the relative sums being paid for rodeo boats. A significant number of paddlers have expressed interest in sea kayaking, but not to the exclusion of other activities. Many paddlers engage in rodeo paddling, river-running and surfing. Unlike some other categories of kayaks, sea kayaks are exclusive in function and as such do not justify their considerable cost.

Social circle – It is proposed that the appeal of kayaking has as much to do with the experience of the outdoors and social interaction it facilitates, as the physical exercise it entails. The dramatic rise in popularity of rodeo paddling is an interesting phenomenon given that many of the manoeuvres are complex and can be achieved by relatively few. It is suggested that the appeal of rodeo can be attributed to its spectator friendly aspect, trendy image and associated social component as much as its ‘buzz’. The lack of young sea paddlers mitigates against it attracting other young paddlers and generates something of a ‘vicious circle’ in respect of the age profile.

One might question why younger paddlers should be targeted for involvement. In answer it could be stated that the benefits are mutual, both in terms of how young people might advance the sport as well as gain from it.

At the outset, interest should be generated among those who already possess a reasonable standard of paddling and thus the task of training can be minimised. If a core group of such paddlers were seen to do interesting stuff it would raise the profile of the sport and perhaps give the activity wider appeal. Some might say that this is elitist, but the motives are pure.

A small number of capable paddlers should be targeted for involvement and encouraged to promote the activity among their peers.

• Provide a series of introductory weekends/days specifically for ‘younger’ paddlers.
• Make available a number of sea kayaks and associated equipment for hire purposes.

• Sea trips which could be undertaken in GP boats – rock hopping and exploration of a stretch of coastline with caves, sea-arches etc.

• Sea trips of short duration with a particular focus.

• Bird life (Inishkea), Seal colonies (?)etc.

• Geological features (NW Mayo)

• Archaeological features (Friar Island)

• Social weekends on islands in close proximity to the mainland or can be accessed by ferry (Clare Island)

• http://www.caske2000.org

• http://homepages.go.com/~edwalshe/index.html

• http://www.knoydart-kayaking.co.uk

• http://www.rossespoint.com/inishmur.htm

The Association wants to encourage the members to advance themselves in personal proficiency, leadership/ instructor qualifications and also in First Aid. Such training will increase skills of the members thus making sea paddling safer and more enjoyable for all.

A grant aid strategy has been set in place to revitalise interest. ISKA will refund up to half the cost of any approved course, provided the applicant was a paid up member at 31^st December 1999 and that the course is taken in the year 2000. (No member may apply for more than one such benefit and all is at the discretion of the committee.)

If there are any courses that you would like run, please do not hesitate to contact me as it may be possible to get a group of people together and run a specific course. If you have not returned the questionnaire sent regarding proficiency attained/ aspired, please return or email the information. This will help in assessing what courses ISKA members require. Below is a guide to courses currently available from various providers around the country.

Mary can be contacted on 074-28177 or at MaryTButler@hotmail.com

Atlantic Sea Kayaking will organise any proficiency and assessments as required once there is a group of 4 participants. They can also organise qualifying trips and grinds for anyone going for assessment.

Jim can also run a rough water sea-kayaking course should there be a demand.

For these courses and much more… contact: JIM KENNEDY, Atlantic Sea Kayaking, Marias Schoolhouse, Union Hall, West Cork. 028 33002 Email: atlanticseakayaking@eircom.net

REC 2 - Rescue Emergency Care - A two-day course that covers all aspects of basic First Aid but tailored to suit adventure sports. Paul Butcher, a sea kayaker himself and a professional paramedic will give this course. This qualification can be advanced upon by additional courses.

Date: Late July Date (to be finalised, please ring/ email for conformation)

Venue: Liffey Centre, Lucan, Dublin.

Bookings: Mary Butler 074 28177 or marytbutler@hotmail.com

Marc Jegou of River Ocean Kayak will run courses for groups of 3 – 5 people All kayaking equipment required for the course will be available. Courses include Level 2 and 3 proficiency and also rough water days.

River Ocean now has a club of regular kayakers who go out most weekends. All are welcome to join them, with or without equipment.

For the full program you can contact Marc Jegou at 065 7077043 or riverocean@esatclear.ie. Please see their website at www.riverocean.com

Bryansford, Newcastle, Co.Down. BT330PT

Email: admin@tollymore.com Website: www.tollymoremc.com Tel: 028) 43722158

Instructor: Oisín Hallissy

L.4 Prof. Training	Aug.26th/27th	£70	Achill
L.4 Prof. Training/ Assessment	Sept.30th/Oct1st	£70	Belmullet
L.5 Prof. Training	Sept23rd/24th	£70	Clare
L.5 Prof. Assessment	Oct. 14th/15th	£70	Achill

4 day Island Hopping	July 21s t-25th	£160	Connemara
4 day Island Hopping	Aug.2nd -5th	£160	Connemara
2 day intermediate Trip	Sept.2nd / 3rd	£80	Saltees
All food, camping & kayaking equipment, instruction, & T-shirt included

Sea Instructor assessements can be arranged on demand.

Contact: Stephenh@iol.ie Saoirse na Mara, 69 Manor Village, Westport Road, Castlebar, County Mayo. 095 27682

National Mountain & White Water Centre

The Devils Glen, Ashford Co.Wicklow Tel: 0404 40196 Email: mail@tiglin.com Web site: www.tiglin.com

Instructor: Jon Hynes

12^th May, La Ciotat, GHQ of MARENOSTRA

A danteesque scene. The forecourt of a respectable apartment complex strewn with kayaks, dry bags and paddles; the entrance blocked by a van and trailer, overrun by shady individuals… Our neighbour Simone won’t let that go, she has penned all these salacious happenings, drooling on the envelope as she stuck it and wrote the address of the Kommandantur - well no, the property management agents - the world has changed. Young bowsies with their canoes.

The bowsies in question are Marenostra setting out for Elba. Their agitation is in fact very constructive: Dario is reinventing the Gordian knot on the boat trailer, Dominique is folding up the different parts of her ninja kayaker outfit, and Stanislas explains to an astounded Stéphane that marathon sea-kayakers are all wussies, and that real kayaks are white, heavy and made in Vannes. Right, time to be serious, we have to get on the road.

Daybreak finds us scattered in our sleeping bags, cosily installed on a heavy goods vehicle park between two motorway slip-roads.

Piombino is the embarkation port for Elba and it’s a surprising foundry port, a small, slightly moth-eaten version of Fos Sur Mer in the middle of the wheat-fields and olive trees of Tuscany. There we meet up with Michel and Nathalie, with their boats straight out of the Voga Longa race in Venice.

The crossing from Piombino to Elba is easily do-able by kayak (6 nautical miles), forbidden but tolerated, and above all, completely uninteresting. We reach the island by ferry complete with kayaks and cars and the morning is devoted to buying provisions and preparing a shuttle between Porto Azzuro and Marcia Marina, our final destination.

Finally the departure: we pass in front of the very beautiful village of Porto Azzuro, with its ochre, sienna and salmon-coloured façades, then some coast-hugging as we head up north.

The coast-line is interesting; rugged sedimentary rock, veins of iron ore. Higher up everything is covered in a sort of scrub which is quite damp; and higher up again appear the parasol pines. No dense construction, just small houses and villas with the old-world charm of the abandoned summer residence.

The previous night was very short. This leg of the journey will be equally short. We find a camping spot behind Ortano Island, joined to the coast by a curious belt of sand just below surface level. Will we, won’t we, get over it? We will! By madly wiggling our bums!

An ideal campsite sheltered from the southern breeze by a cliff; sea urchins for aperitif; the mouth-watering aroma of Martin’s cook-up; the crackling of the fire… What a good ol’ life!

What if I tried the classic sea kayak account: S/SW 16 knots. Departure at 0907, 19 nautical miles covered. Saw a herring gull at 1445. He shat on my kayak. Filthy creature.

No, that won’t do. The truth is: paddling a Kitiwek in a swell with a following sea, in a greyish light - the skeg down just a little - holding a perfect line.

The behaviour of the other kayaks in these lively sea conditions is very interesting and varied. Fréderique proudly tests the secondary stability of her Pétrel; her ability to edge and her talent for belly dancing will be all the better for it.

After Rio Marina the coast is covered in old abandoned iron mines, embarkation pontoons already eaten up by the sea. It has an ambiguous charm: the ambiguity disappears after Cabo Pero headland; here it is quite simply very beautiful. Small clean beaches providing discreet campsites, the magnificent port of Cavo and its villas. After selecting a dozen or so of these as the "Head Office" of Marenostra, we grow weary of the game.

We reach Cabo della Vita, the North Eastern tip of the island.

The coastline is stunning; volcanic rocks give way to red, grey and green sedimentary rocks. These layered cliffs of Pietre Rosse have been fashioned by the hand of God.

We stop to eat on a pebbly beech eyed by a wary goat. We count at least three excellent potential campsites along the stretch of coast going down towards the Gulf of Portoferraio.

A stop for ice-cream and drinking water at Portoferraio. We set out again and finish the stage on a long, quiet beach beneath the limestone cliffs of Costa Bianca.

We continue paddling towards the west following the coast along wild, rugged sections, cutting across the bottom of the Golfo di Procchio, a little too populous for our taste. Superb weather, the water is already warm. We meet Gaudenzio, a local paddler who runs a sea kayaking school and today is leading a group of American clients. An unusual detail worth noting: the school uses Eskimo paddles.

We end our route at Punta della Zanca, right at the western end of the island. A final geological fantasy, pink and blond granite, and a surprising maze where kayaks get lost.

It’s the end of the road, the beaches of black sand of the south-western coast will be for another time… we are going back to Marciana Marina.

Later on… the kayaks loaded up again, the group are seated at the table of a small restaurant above Marciana Marina. Scampi, prawns, pasta alla vongole. The waitress, a kind hearted individual, operates an uninterrupted supply-line of pitchers of chilled white wine with Martin and Stanislas supervising their adequacy and capacity.

Dario, who has been an indispensable interpreter throughout the journey and its preparation, now achieves the unthinkable: he explains to me the difference between la torta della mama, la torta della casa and indeed even la torta della mama della casa.

Gaudenzio and his Americans join us for grapa. This gives rise to accounts of surfing, races and capsizes. It is not quite clear whether this all happened in Paimpol or in Oregon, but it is extremely funny.

The return journey… Tuscany, Genoa, Monaco. The hours pass. Martin and Dominique occupy the time by telling Stanislas about the Quest for Keys of their club from a suspicious president. Beside it the Holy Grail was child’s play; they start their account in Piombino and conclude it in La Ciotat. Stanislas is exhausted.

For Fred and myself, it is an opportunity to review Marenostra’s first season. It could have been worse… So rendezvous for September!

Since 1953, Atlantic tropical storms have been named from lists originated by the National Hurricane Centre and now maintained and updated by an international committee of the World Meteorological Organisation. The lists featured only women's names until 1979, when men's and women's names were alternated. Six lists are used in rotation. Thus, the 1999 list will be used again in 2005.

The only time that there is a change in the list is if a storm is so deadly or costly that the future use of its name on a different storm would be inappropriate for reasons of sensitivity. If that occurs, then at an annual meeting by the WMO committee (called primarily to discuss many other issues) the offending name is stricken from the list and another name is selected to replace it.

Erin     Edouard   Erika       Earl
Floyd    Florence  Felix       Fay       Fabian     Frances
Gert     Gordon    Gabrielle   Gustav    Grace      Gaston
Harvey   Helene    Humberto    Hanna     Henri      Hermine
Irene    Isaac     Iris        Isidore   Isabel     Ivan
Jose     Joyce     Jerry       Josephine Juan       Jeanne
Katrina  Keith     Karen       Kyle      Kate       Karl
Lenny    Leslie    Lorenzo     Lili      Larry      Lisa
Maria    Michael   Michelle    Marco     Mindy      Matthew
Nate     Nadine    Noel        Nana      Nicholas   Nicole
Ophelia  Oscar     Olga        Omar      Odette     Otto
Philippe Patty     Pablo       Paloma    Peter      Paula
Rita     Rafael    Rebekah     Rene      Rose       Richard
Stan     Sandy     Sebastien   Sally     Sam        Shary
Tammy    Tony      Tanya       Teddy     Teresa     Tomas
Vince    Valerie   Van         Vicky     Victor     Virginie

During a period of particularly calm weather in early November, Paddy Fox and myself decided we would pay a visit to Ballybunnion, a trip we had often discussed but never got around to.

The forecast was for force one to three, easterly, with skies overcast. There had been an area of very high pressure over the north of the country for the previous several days which meant there should be no major swell.

The plan was to leave Carrigaholt well before low tide. This meant we would be able to note the effect of the tidal race, without the distractions of waves or any appreciable wind. We got to the Irish College in Carrigaholt at 10:45, an hour later than we had hoped. This is as close as we’ve ever got to being on schedule and we were really chuffed.

Having loaded the boats with food, water, dry clothes, emergency flares, VHF radios, flasks, torches etc., we carried them down the muddy foreshore, past some Oyster beds and launched.

There are several marker buoys in the Estuary between Kilcredaun Pt. and Kilconly Pt. on the Kerry coast. These guide shipping safely into and out of the Shannon estuary. The gap is relatively narrow here, with tidal streams reaching four knots. Our course took us past these buoys, in order to minimise our time in the shipping channel. Immediately on entering the channel proper, we noticed a serious south-westerly current flow. We adjusted our course, and by paddling due east, we actually travelled south-east, directly for Kilconly Pt.

The water surface was glassy, with typical current features like rising and sinking water flows. Mid-way across the channel we came upon a school of about ten dolphins, feeding in the ebbing tide. They passed at their ease, with a barely perceptible detour to check us out. A calf, swimming by his mother’s shoulder treated us to an aerial summersault and several back-flips. Diving and surfacing gracefully, the unmistakable noise of their breathing was loud in the still air. After about five minutes they moved on; and so did we.

We’d lost a bit of ground so we paddled quite hard for a while and at 11:50 reached the Kerry shore. After a breather and a badly needed drink of water, we followed the land south.

The coast is quite pleasant here with stratified sandstone sloping sharply into the water and no trace of human habitation. South of Kilconly Pt. is a rocky bay with a lovely waterfall and some really distinctive rock features. This bay has a lot of reefs and I’m sure it would be interesting with a decent swell.

Past this, the land is less distinctive and we made our way towards Leck Pt. The terrain is more rugged coming towards Leck Pt., which is to be expected, and although the castle is mostly gone, what’s left is impressive, with one remaining arch reaching into the sky, it’s keystone testament to the skill of a mason long since gone. Here we were joined by an inquisitive (well, we were in Kerry) seal.

The bay between Leck Pt. and Doon Pt. contains two waterfalls on its northern side. The more impressive of these is Coosheen stream, about sixty feet high and falling onto a rocky beach. Maybe at high tide the water level rises to reach it. The second is Glenachoor stream. There is at least one long, deep cave (the first we’d encountered), near the tiny headland, which juts into the centre of the bay.

South of this, a tiny cove curves around to another minor headland where there is a very impressive sea stack and arch. However, inside this stack, carved from some of the most stratified rock I’ve ever seen is a maze of caves and arches, which were so impressive and unexpected, they blew our minds.

Thanks to the unusual calmness of the water we were able to meander in and around these pretty much at our ease. The land curves inwards and around to Doon Pt., and farther south, the cliffs form a deep bay which brings us to Ballybunnion Pt., and into Nun’s beach.

The huge arch in the centre of this bay is very impressive. Between here and Ballybunnions main beach the headland is absolutely riddled with caves and arches of all shapes and sizes, including one where the roof has caved in. This is the legendary ‘nine daughters hole’ where it is said a chieftain flung all his nine daughters to their deaths because they were associating with the Vikings.

We only explored half of them due to a slight swell and a great hunger. Rounding the last corner we just surfed in on the little waves to the golden sands. This was our first splash of the day.

Having carried the boats half way up the beach, we got the lunch gear from the hatches and ate on the promenade. A surprising number of people passed us to walk the beautiful golden beach. Forty-five minutes had passed before we knew it, and at 3:25 we headed through the surf again. We were mindful of the fact that darkness fell at 5:30 and two kayakers would be very difficult to see in a busy shipping channel in twilight. Also, there was the question of whether we would retrace our steps, and take a shorter crossing -with a very narrow shipping channel - or head straight across the estuary from Ballybunnion. This is a shorter overall distance of seven and a half kilometres, but with a much wider area in which we might meet ships. The late hour, the failing light, our tiredness, and the maximum flow entering the estuary dictated an immediate crossing.

Heading Northwest for Rehy hill, we said we could adjust for drift as we went along. About one third of the way across we noticed what looked like a ship entering the channel. We picked up the pace a little, joking about how quickly it was approaching. There was absolutely no drift eastwards yet, and so we headed North-North west.

The navigation lights in the estuary were beginning to come on at this stage and we knew from the leading lights at Querrin that we were quite a ways short of the channel centre. Even though we were paddling quite hard, their convergence was agonisingly slow, while the ship loomed ever larger on the horizon. Eventually, the lights were vertical, flashing simultaneously, telling us we’d reached the ship’s path. The ship (a big mother!) was quite visible by now.

It is easy to gauge distances, and projected speeds versus divergent paths in the comfort of your sitting room. It’s really another, to see the bow of a one hundred an twenty thousand tonne ship bearing down on you on a grey November evening, as you try to figure out how come the second half of a crossing always seems to take forever! Anyway at this stage we had further adjusted our course to the North and were headed for the Lighthouse at Kilcredaun Pt.

It seemed like forever before we were definitely out of the channel, and we took a well-deserved breather. We’d made it with plenty to spare, but still it was great to be looking at a side-profile of the ship for a change. With the wind picking up and in our faces, the current for the first time became noticeable, only one hundred metres from the north shore. This served to swing us nicely past the Napoleonic Battery towards Kilcredaun Pt., and we entered the sheltered area from where we’d started earlier.

All the lights along the Shannon were now on, from the twinkling of the navigation lights, upriver to Querrin and Cappagh with the lights of Moneypoint and Tarbert in the distance.

The trip in total took about six hours with breaks totalling one hour. We were really amazed at the scenery. Also We were exhausted and sore but seriously buzzed. A couple of creamy pints in the Long Dock finished off the day nicely.

The Clare Island Meet will coincide with the Marine Millennium Regatta on the island. It will be exciting to be part of a larger festival. There’ll be time for a circumnavigation on Saturday and Sundays programme includes Currach Racing, Yawl Racing, Children's Beach Sports Events, Kayak Racing and Tug-O-War Competitions.

If you want to bring the family, there is a regular ferry from Roonagh Quay.

Meet at Roonagh Quay on Saturday morning at 09:30.

You can get further information from our own Eileen Murphy (01 4582468) or from Donal O'Shea, Island Manager, Cliara Development Co. Ltd., Community Centre, Clare Island, Co. Mayo. Tel: 098 26525. Fax: 098 26525

E-mail - cliara@anu.iecliara@anu.ie,

Web: http://www.anu.ie/clareisland/index.html

Set in a group of islands which have some of the finest sea kayaking in the world, this is an event not to be missed. The programme will offer a range of activities from the leisurely to the strenuous and will be aimed at all paddling levels. There will be practical, on-the-water skills sessions, group sessions, lectures and talks about a variety of subjects, slide shows and also guided paddle trips – something for everyone.

For more info, contact Tom Smith, Sunshine Cottage, Bridge-End, Burra, Shetland, Ph: 0044 1595 859647 or email tom@telviradio.demon.co.uk

Do encourage any of your river paddling buddies to try sea kayaking in North Clare next September. While this is not intended for complete beginners, it is perfect for those with a little paddling experience. Contact David Walsh on 01 4973611 for more details.

Subscriptions are £10 p.a. and can be paid to David Walsh at the address below.

Honorary memberships are available to people who make a significant contribution to the Association. Additional names sharing Treasna na dTonnta at the one address may be added at £5.00 extra each

I.C.U. membership/registration is available at an additional £2 p.a.. This is only useful for those who are not registered with the I.C.U. either individually or through another club.